The importance of stock as the basis for most every cuisine cannot be overstated. It is the foundation of just about anything that is created culinarily and needs a flavorful beginning.
Stocks are the backbone of soups, sauces and braising liquids. A chef’s ability to create stocks of all kinds shows his commitment to his craft and just how serious he or she is about food. Stocks can be further reduced to derivatives and reductions to enhance and embolden the flavor of anything they touch.
A young apprentice chef or culinary students’ very first lessons involve the prepping and making of stock and any serious kitchen is utilizing some sort of stock. Some of my most favorite culinary experiences revolve around this simple yet extremely important act. Making stock is quite a simple process. You are essentially extracting the flavor out of bones (chicken, beef, lamb, veal, etc), meat for broth and from vegetables. You can further enhance this flavor with the addition of aromatics such as mirepoix (carrot, onion and celery), herbs and even wine. As in, the case of a “fumet”, a quick stock made from the sweating of aromatics and white fleshed fish bones in white wine and finished with water.
In the Western world, the backbone and quintessential beginning of most dishes, from many serious kitchens would be, Veal Stock. Veal Stock provides, to me, is the most perfectly balanced flavor profile of all stocks. It provides the perfect blend of flavor and texture, due heavily to the abundance of collagen in the bones and joints of the calf. I would encourage you to try and make veal stock (or any variety) at home. It is extremely healthy for you as it strengthens hair, skin and nails. While, also providing lubrication for your own joints. Plus, it enhances the flavor of anything you use it with.
Here is a simple, fundamentally sound recipe and method for making Veal Stock:
1/4C Vegetable Oil
10 lbs. Veal Bones (knuckles, breast, shanks) 3-4 in” pieces
4 ea. Large carrots, pealed
4 ea. Ribs of celery
2ea. Large onions, peeled
5ea. Cloves of garlic, peeled
1/4C Tomato Paste
2Tbl. Black Peppercorns, roughly cracked
5ea. Thymes Sprigs
5ea. Parsley Sprigs (entire stem)
2ea. Bay Leaves
Method:
Begin by pre-heating your oven to 450 degrees. Roast the bones in roasting pans coated lightly with oil until you reach a deep dark mahogany brown color on them. Some parts of the bones may even become a little charred. This is ok. From time to time use tongs to rotate the bones to have more even roasting. Once browned, remove the bones from the pan(s) and place into a stock pot. Be sure to scrape all the good stuff off the bottom of the pan and put into the stock pot as well. If there is any remaining liquid in the pan taste for bitterness and then add if its not to bitter. Cover the bones in the pot with about 4’ of cold water above the bones. Bring the water up to a very slight simmer over medium high heat. While this is happening roughly chop the mirepoix/garlic cloves and begin sautéing in an appropriately sized pan. Once a deep caramelization has occurred, add the tomato paste and cook out the flavor. This is called a pince of the paste. Once you have achieved good color and flavor add this mixture to the stock pot along with the herbs and bay leaves. At this point just make sure the stock is somewhere between 180 and 200 degrees and allow to cook for 8-12 hours. Once achieved, strain the stock through a fine mesh chinois if you have one, or some cheesecloth and cool. You can now enjoy this stock, as is, or turn it into many different reduction/derivatives. We will discuss those in a separate blog. ENJOY!
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